Watering and seasonsBC-06
Bonsai Winter Care: Where to Keep 13 Species, Why Frost Comes First, Cold Frame Alternatives, Winter Watering and Checking for Dead Trees
For bonsai winter care, let trees take 2 to 3 frosts, then move each species into a cold frame, under the bench or under the eaves. Protect cold-sensitive needle juniper and banyan fig early.
In this article (15 sections)
- In short: where should you keep bonsai in winter?
- Why let bonsai take frost before moving them in for winter?
How do a cold frame, under the bench, under the eaves and indoors differ for bonsai winter care?3
- Which bonsai are weak to cold in winter?
- How do you prevent dry wind and frozen pots in bonsai winter care?
- How do you water bonsai in winter?
What do you do for bonsai in winter?1
- What if you have no winter protection or cold frame?
- How can you tell if a bonsai has died in winter?
- When does bonsai winter care end?
- How should you change bonsai winter care in cold or warm areas?
- What terms come up when talking about bonsai winter care?
- What else should you know alongside bonsai winter care?
- Sources
In short: where should you keep bonsai in winter?
For bonsai winter care, let trees take 2 to 3 frosts, then move them into a cold frame, under the bench or under the eaves to suit the species. Protect needle juniper early, and bring the banyan fig indoors.
As a general rule, bonsai are outdoor trees, so they spend the winter outside too. If you bring them into a heated room because it is cold, they bud poorly the next year.
The hard part is deciding how much protection to give. Even among bonsai, some trees can stay on the bench while others are better off in a cold frame.
Autumn is the time to decide where each tree goes and start preparing. Once frost begins, move the pots one by one using the table below.
What this article covers:
- Winter spots for 13 species
- Why trees take frost before going in, and the signs to watch
- How a cold frame, under the bench, under the eaves and indoors differ
- Trees weak to cold, and winter watering
- Winter jobs, and what to use if you have no cold frame
- How to tell whether a tree has died
| Species | Type | Winter spot |
|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | Conifer | Outdoors on the bench, out of drying wind; small or weak trees under eaves or in a cold frame |
| Japanese white pine | Conifer | Cold frame (mid-December to February) |
| Shimpaku juniper | Conifer | Under the bench or in a cold frame after 2-3 frosts |
| Needle juniper | Conifer | Cold frame, moved in early (weak to cold and dry air) |
| Japanese maple | Deciduous | Cold frame after 2-3 frosts |
| Trident maple | Deciduous | Under the bench or in a cold frame after 2-3 frosts (mid-December to March) |
| Japanese zelkova | Deciduous | Under the bench or in a cold frame after 2-3 frosts |
| Japanese apricot (ume) | Flowering | Cold frame |
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | Flowering | Under the bench or in a cold frame after 2-3 frosts |
| Satsuki azalea | Flowering | Under the eaves (December to March) |
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | Flowering | Cold frame |
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) | Fruiting | Cold frame, out of frost and dry winter wind |
| Banyan fig (gajumaru) | Indoor | Indoors (5°C or above) |
Source (13)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.55 (candle cutting Jun–Jul), Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai, Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.50
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Shimpaku juniper
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (ume), All About (Kaori Yamada, Seikoen), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru
The table above shows winter spots for 13 species. Even among conifers, black pine stays on the bench while white pine and needle juniper go into a cold frame.
| Spot | What it is | Example species in the table | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| On the bench | On top of an outdoor bench | Black pine | Keep out of strong, dry wind |
| Under the bench | The space under the bench, enclosed with sheeting | Shimpaku, trident maple, zelkova, cherry | Open it up for air during sunny days |
| Cold frame | A box or enclosure that protects the trees | White pine, needle juniper, maple, ume, chojubai, crabapple | Check how dry the pots are every day |
| Under the eaves | Under the eaves of the house | Satsuki | No rain reaches it, so pots dry out easily |
| Indoors | A room at 5°C or above | Banyan fig | Keep out of the heater's airflow |
The key point: in bonsai winter care, what you are guarding against is less the cold itself than dry wind and frozen pots.
Why let bonsai take frost before moving them in for winter?
Frost tells the tree that winter has come. A tree that has felt the cold gets ready for harder cold.
A bonsai writer's material says that exposing trees for a while to cold enough for frost raises their cold hardiness. Moving them into a warm room because it feels cold to you affects their budding the next year.
| Sign | What to look for |
|---|---|
| The days have shortened | Start preparing for winter |
| Lows of 5°C or below keep coming | A guide for moving trees into the cold frame |
| You have seen morning frost 2 to 3 times | The end of the frost exposure period |
| Trees weak to cold | Protect them early, without waiting for frost |
Decide the day to move trees into the cold frame by the frost and temperature signs rather than the calendar month. The signs come early in cold areas and late in warm areas.
Only trees weak to cold can go in before frost. Trees weak to cold do not need frost exposure.
How do a cold frame, under the bench, under the eaves and indoors differ for bonsai winter care?
The difference is how much they keep off wind, frost and chill. A cold frame gives the strongest protection, and indoors is only for trees weak to cold.
What is a cold frame?
A cold frame is a box or enclosure that protects bonsai from cold and dry wind. A full-scale one is a plastic greenhouse or a half-buried pit, but a polystyrene foam box also does the job.
If you keep a cold frame shut, it warms up on sunny days and gets stuffy. On sunny days, open the lid or sheet during the day to let air in.
Ume spends the winter in a cold frame, as the table shows. You can enjoy its flowers that open during winter while it gets ready for budding in spring.
How do you use the space under the bench or under the eaves?
The space under the bench is used by enclosing it with sheeting. Under the eaves suits trees such as satsuki that you want to keep out of frost and cold rain.
Under the bench, enclose the space with two layers of plastic sheeting. Weigh it down so the wind does not lift it. This is the method in a bonsai writer's material, and you can also enclose it with corrugated metal sheets.
Under the eaves keeps off frost and cold rain. On the other hand, no rain reaches the pots, so check often that they have not dried out.
Can you bring bonsai indoors?
Only indoor trees that are weak to cold, such as the banyan fig, should come indoors. Avoid bringing pines or deciduous trees into a heated room.
Material from Hyponex says the banyan fig drops its leaves at 5°C or below. In winter, keep it indoors where the heater's airflow does not reach it.
Indoors, water the banyan fig less often in winter too. Water only after the soil dries well, and empty any water left in the saucer.
The banyan fig is damaged from the cut if it is pruned in winter. Even if long shoots bother you, wait until it is warm to prune.
| Indoor banyan fig | Winter care |
|---|---|
| Spot | A bright room that does not drop below 5°C. Keep out of the heater's airflow |
| Watering | Less often, only after the soil dries well |
| Pruning | Not in winter. Wait until it is warm |
| Leaves have dropped | A sign of cold. Check the temperature where it stands |
Pines and deciduous trees can spend the winter outdoors if you keep off frost and dry wind.
Which bonsai are weak to cold in winter?
Of the 13 species in the table, the needle juniper and the banyan fig are weak to cold. Move the needle juniper into a cold frame early, and bring the banyan fig indoors.
| Species | Type | Winter spot |
|---|---|---|
| Needle juniper | Conifer | Cold frame, moved in early (weak to cold and dry air) |
| Banyan fig (gajumaru) | Indoor | Indoors (5°C or above) |
Source: Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting) / Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru
Needle juniper is a conifer, but it is weak to cold and dry air. A bonsai writer's material lists needle juniper among the warm-climate species that do not need frost exposure.
The same material also lists these trees as weak to cold.
- Citrus, gardenia, camellia
- Pomegranate, crape myrtle
- Serissa, Yeddo hawthorn
- Taiwan boxwood, rockspray cotoneaster, mountain hydrangea
Some trees are hardy to cold but weak to winter dryness. The same material names northern Japanese hemlock and Yezo spruce.
Trees in small pots are also on the protect-early side. Even black pine goes under the eaves or into a cold frame if it is a mini bonsai or a weak tree.
If you are not sure whether a tree is hardy, move it under the eaves without waiting for frost. In spring you can look up its name and decide its spot for next winter.
How do you prevent dry wind and frozen pots in bonsai winter care?
Keep dry wind off by putting trees under the bench or in a cold frame. Prevent frozen pots by not leaving water in them from evening on.
Even for hardy trees, most winter damage comes from dry wind and freezing. The table sums up the kinds of damage described in a bonsai writer's material.
| Winter damage | Cause | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Twig tips and winter buds die | Dry winter wind | Put trees under the bench or in a cold frame. Move them out of the wind's path |
| New shoots turn brown | Late frost in early spring | Do not rush them out of the cold frame. Put them back on nights with a frost forecast |
| Roots are damaged or pots crack | The soil freezes at night | Water in the morning and leave no water overnight |
| Foliage loses color (pine, shimpaku) | Not enough sun | Give them sun during sunny days |
| Mold or stuffiness | A shut cold frame | Open it up for air during sunny days |
Black pine is tough against both heat and cold. Even so, a bonsai writer's material says to keep it out of strong dry wind in the coldest season.
Maples and cherries are also hardy to cold. The same material says dry outside air and late frost can damage their twigs and new shoots.
For bonsai in winter, decide how to protect them by whether wind hits them and whether the soil freezes, rather than by the temperature reading. On windy days, move the trees on the bench down to the space underneath.
If the pot surface is frozen white on a winter morning, that spot is too cold. Move the tree to a sunny spot out of the wind, and water once the soil has thawed.
How do you water bonsai in winter?
Water bonsai less often in winter, but do not let them dry out too much. The basic rule is to water in the warmer morning and leave no water at night.
In winter the tree stops growing and takes up less water. Even so, the dry winter air dries the soil faster than you might think.
A bonsai writer's material says to check how dry the trees are once a day, even in a cold frame. Soil that freezes at night harms pots and roots, so water in the morning.
The Omiya Bonsai Art Museum gives winter watering as about once a day. This is a general rule for the museum's bonsai, and pots dry more slowly in a cold frame.
| Spot | How it dries | Winter watering |
|---|---|---|
| On the bench | Dries fast in dry wind | When the surface is dry, water well in the morning |
| Under the bench or in a cold frame | Out of the wind, dries slowly | Check every day and water when dry |
| Under the eaves | No rain reaches it | Check it is not dry even after rainy days |
| Indoors (banyan fig) | Heating dries it, but the roots take up little water | Less often, only after the soil dries well |
You can see winter watering guides for each species by picking a winter month in the "This month" tool below. Do not feed during winter.
Running out of water in winter harms the spring buds. Material on cherries also says winter dryness affects the next year's buds. Watering as a whole is covered in bonsai watering.
What do you do for bonsai in winter?
Try switching the month in the "This month" tool above to December, January or February. It shows that month's jobs for the species you chose, plus a preview of the next month.
The job months are a guide for lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area). Shift them later in colder areas and earlier in warmer areas.
In the coldest part of midwinter, none of the 13 species has any job marked. The marks for pruning and wiring cluster at the start and the end of winter.
Winter work is mostly about resting and protecting the tree, rather than moving branches or buds.
| Winter job | What it involves | Aim |
|---|---|---|
| Cleaning | Brush the trunk and root spread with a toothbrush to remove moss and dirt | Fewer places for pests to spend the winter |
| Spraying | Use lime sulfur or similar, following the instructions | Fewer diseases and pests that overwinter |
| Sun | Give pines and shimpaku sun during sunny days | Keep sun-loving trees from weakening |
| Airing | Open the cold frame or sheeting during sunny days | Prevent stuffiness |
| Removing fruit | Take crabapple fruit off by around the turn of the year | Keep the tree from weakening |
| Feeding | Do not feed | It goes unused in winter and fouls the soil |
A bonsai writer's material gives two sprayings as a guide: before trees go into the cold frame, and in the depth of winter. Cleaning and spraying are easier if you finish them before trees go into the cold frame.
Can you prune or wire in winter?
Species marked in the table can be done at the start of winter or before bud break. In the coldest part of midwinter, avoid heavy work on every tree.
Also see the times not to cut in when to prune bonsai. Do not cut maple branches in winter, and do not wire satsuki in winter.
What if you have no winter protection or cold frame?
Even without a cold frame, you can protect trees with a polystyrene foam box, or with a simple cold frame made by enclosing the space under the bench with sheeting. Open it up for air during sunny days.
| Alternative | Suited to | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Polystyrene foam box | Small bonsai and mini bonsai | Open the lid during sunny days |
| Enclose the space under the bench with sheeting | Many pots | Use two layers of sheeting and weigh it down |
| Enclose with corrugated metal sheets | Windy spots | Do not leave it closed and stuffy |
| Move under the eaves | Trees you want out of frost and cold rain | Watch for drying |
Winter protection means enclosing a tree to protect it from cold and wind. A bonsai writer's material also says a polystyrene foam box or a simple cold frame under the bench is enough.
When you enclose trees, closing up is not the end. Count opening up on sunny days as part of the same job.
A cold frame warms up quickly at midday on sunny days. Remember it as a set: open it in the morning, close it in the evening.
How can you tell if a bonsai has died in winter?
If a deciduous tree has winter buds on its branch tips after dropping its leaves, it is likely to leaf out in spring. If unsure, scrape a little bark off a branch and see whether it is green underneath.
Deciduous trees naturally have no leaves in winter. Do not decide a tree is dead just because its leaves have fallen.
| Where to look | Likely alive | Serious damage |
|---|---|---|
| Branch tips of deciduous trees | Winter buds are present | No winter buds, and the branches are dry and snap |
| Under the bark | Green | Brown to black |
| Foliage of pine or shimpaku | Some green remains | It has turned brown all over |
| Soil in the pot | Dries as usual | Stays wet all the time |
Material from the University of Florida says that if you lightly scrape the bark and it is green underneath, the tree is alive. Cold damage looks worst right after it happens, so wait 3 to 7 days.
Scrape only a little, at the tip of a thin branch that is out of sight. There is still time to decide a tree is dead after you see whether its buds move in spring.
The same material says that if you are unsure, do not cut branches until new shoots appear. Once the buds move in spring, you can see which parts are alive and which are dead.
When does bonsai winter care end?
Take trees out of the cold frame once there is no more risk of late frost. The basic saying is "into the cold frame late, out of it early."
Trees repotted in early spring get used to the outside air little by little, while the cold frame keeps them from drying out. Satsuki repotted in autumn should also come out a little later.
If you take trees outside suddenly, late frost and dry wind damage the new shoots. Start by putting them outside only during the day on sunny days, and get them used to it gradually.
Repotting is covered in when to repot bonsai.
How should you change bonsai winter care in cold or warm areas?
Protect trees earlier in cold areas and later in warm areas. If you go by the frost and temperature signs, you can adjust to your area without memorizing months.
| Area | When the signs come | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Cold areas | Earlier than lowland Kanto | Frozen pots and soil. Get the cold frame ready early |
| Lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area) | The baseline for this article | Move trees in after seeing frost 2 to 3 times |
| Warm areas | Later than lowland Kanto | In years with little frost, decide by whether lows of 5°C or below keep coming |
In every area, the foundation of bonsai winter care is not letting the pot soil freeze at night.
What terms come up when talking about bonsai winter care?
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Overwintering | Getting a tree through the winter without damage until spring |
| Cold frame | A box or enclosure that protects bonsai from cold and dry wind |
| Moving in and out | Putting trees into the cold frame, and taking them out of it |
| On the bench, under the bench | On top of the bonsai bench, and the enclosed space below it |
| Under the eaves | Under the overhang of the house roof. It keeps off frost and rain |
| Winter protection | Enclosing a tree to protect it from cold and wind |
| Warm-climate species | Trees that come from warm regions and are weak to cold |
| Cold hardiness | A tree's ability to stand the cold |
| Late frost | Frost that falls after spring has warmed up |
| Winter buds | Buds that last through the winter and open in spring |
| Lime sulfur | The general name for a winter spray against diseases and pests |
What else should you know alongside bonsai winter care?
Bonsai winter care links to winter watering and to repotting and pruning in spring. You can check the flow of the year in the year calendar.
What are common questions about bonsai winter care?
Should you bring bonsai indoors in winter?
Most bonsai spend the winter outdoors. Only trees weak to cold, such as the banyan fig, come indoors.
In a heated room the tree cannot rest over winter, and it buds poorly the next year. Pines and deciduous trees can winter outdoors if you keep off frost and dry wind.
When do you move bonsai into a cold frame?
When the days have shortened and lows of 5°C or below keep coming. Move them in after you have seen morning frost 2 to 3 times.
Trees weak to cold, such as needle juniper, go in without waiting for frost. Deciding by frost and temperature signs instead of months lets you adjust to your area.
How many days apart should you water bonsai in winter?
It depends on the species and the spot. Pick a winter month in the "This month" tool to see a guide for each species.
Do not go by the number of days; check for dryness every day and water in the morning when dry. If the soil is still wet at night, it freezes and harms the roots.
How do you overwinter mini bonsai?
Small pots freeze and dry out easily, so protect them early. Even black pine, which is hardy to cold, goes under the eaves or into a cold frame when the tree is small.
Lining them up in a polystyrene foam box protects them all together. Open the lid during sunny days so they do not get stuffy.
Do you feed bonsai in winter?
No, not during winter. The tree does not use fertilizer in winter, so it only fouls the soil.
A bonsai writer's material says that even winter fertilizer should be removed unless there is a reason for it. Feeding starts again once the buds move in spring. The timing is covered in when to fertilize bonsai.
Sources
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Winter care of bonsai (盆栽の冬の管理, in Japanese. Why frost exposure, signs for moving into the cold frame, enclosing under the bench, winter watering, warm-climate species, winter jobs, moving out of the cold frame)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese black pine (クロマツの育て方, in Japanese. Keep out of strong dry wind in winter, small or weak trees under the eaves or in a cold frame)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese white pine (ゴヨウマツの育て方, in Japanese)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow needle juniper (トショウの育て方, in Japanese)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese maple (モミジの育て方, in Japanese. Into the cold frame after 2 to 3 frosts)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow flowering cherry (サクラの育て方, in Japanese. Under the bench, cold frame, running dry in winter)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow satsuki azalea (サツキの育て方, in Japanese. Under the eaves, winter watering, taking autumn-repotted trees out of the cold frame)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, Saitama City: newsletter Jinshari Vol.46, Summer work: the secrets of watering (in Japanese. How often to water in winter)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru (in Japanese. Drops its leaves at 5°C or below, indoors in winter, keep out of the heater's airflow)
- UF/IFAS Extension Miami-Dade: Good Strategies for Cold Damage in the Landscape (green under the bark, wait 3 to 7 days, do not cut until new shoots appear)