When to do itBC-03
When to Prune Bonsai: Months for 13 Species, Pinching vs Candle Cutting vs Defoliation, When Not to Cut, and Wiring
When to prune bonsai depends on the type of tree. Prune conifers and deciduous trees around dormancy, and flowering trees right after bloom, never after the flower buds form in summer.
In this article (14 sections)
- In short: when should you prune bonsai?
How do pruning, pinching, candle cutting and defoliation differ in bonsai?2
- How should you think about when to prune conifer bonsai?
- How should you think about when to prune deciduous bonsai?
How should you think about when to prune flowering and fruiting bonsai?1
- When should you not prune bonsai?
- How do you shift when to prune bonsai for your area or the year?
When should you wire bonsai?1
- What should you do when bonsai pruning goes wrong?
- What should you check before pruning bonsai?
- What terms come up when talking about bonsai pruning?
- What else should you know alongside bonsai pruning?
What are common questions about when to prune bonsai?5
- Sources
In short: when should you prune bonsai?
When to prune bonsai depends on the group the species belongs to. For conifers and deciduous trees, the basic times are just before and after dormancy; for flowering trees, right after the flowers finish.
A common saying is that "as long as you avoid midsummer and midwinter, you can prune almost all year." A bonsai publisher's guide also says it is enough to avoid strong direct sun in midsummer and freezing in midwinter.
Mistakes still happen because each species has times when it should not be cut. Maples cut in winter keep bleeding sap, and satsuki or cherries cut after summer bloom less the next year.
This site has put the months for pruning and bud work for 13 species into tables. The months are a guide for lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area). Shift them later in colder areas and earlier in warmer areas.
What this article covers:
- When to prune 13 species, and when to do bud work
- How pruning, pinching, candle cutting and defoliation differ
- The times not to cut for each group of trees
- When to wire, and how to remove wire that is biting in
- What to do when pruning goes wrong
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | ||||||||||||
| Japanese white pine | ||||||||||||
| Shimpaku juniper | ||||||||||||
| Needle juniper | ||||||||||||
| Japanese maple | ||||||||||||
| Trident maple | ||||||||||||
| Japanese zelkova | ||||||||||||
| Japanese apricot (ume) | ||||||||||||
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | ||||||||||||
| Satsuki azalea | ||||||||||||
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | ||||||||||||
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) | ||||||||||||
| Banyan fig (gajumaru) |
Source (13)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.55 (candle cutting Jun–Jul), Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai, Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.50
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Shimpaku juniper
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (ume), All About (Kaori Yamada, Seikoen), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru
The table above shows the pruning months for 13 species. For many species, the months fall into two peaks: early spring before bud break, and autumn into early winter.
The needle juniper and the banyan fig are weak to cold, so only the warm months are marked. Ume is marked only after flowering, and Japanese white pine only in autumn.
The key point: choose the day to prune bonsai from within the marked months, based on the tree's vigor and the weather.
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | ||||||||||||
| Japanese white pine | ||||||||||||
| Shimpaku juniper | ||||||||||||
| Needle juniper | ||||||||||||
| Japanese maple | ||||||||||||
| Trident maple | ||||||||||||
| Japanese zelkova | ||||||||||||
| Japanese apricot (ume) | ||||||||||||
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | ||||||||||||
| Satsuki azalea | ||||||||||||
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | ||||||||||||
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) |
Source (12)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.55 (candle cutting Jun–Jul), Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai, Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.50
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Shimpaku juniper
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (ume), All About (Kaori Yamada, Seikoen), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
This table shows the months for bud work. Pruning cuts branches, while bud work tidies new shoots that have just started to grow.
What bud work means depends on the species. For black pine it is candle cutting, for white pine it is pinching (candle pinching), and for satsuki it is pinching shoots after flowering.
| Group of trees | Pruning basics | When not to cut | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Conifers (black pine, white pine, shimpaku, needle juniper) | Thick branches before bud break, tidy up in autumn | The coldest part of midwinter. For needle juniper, the cold months | Branches tend to die back from the cut |
| Deciduous (maple, trident maple, zelkova) | Around leaf fall, and before bud break | Maple in winter | The sap does not stop and branches die back |
| Flowering (ume, cherry, satsuki, chojubai) | Right after the flowers finish | After the flower buds form in summer | You cut off next year's flower buds |
| Fruiting (crabapple) | Before bud break and in autumn | While it flowers and the fruit grows | You remove branches carrying flowers or fruit |
| Indoor (banyan fig) | Warm months | Winter | Damage starts from the cut |
How do pruning, pinching, candle cutting and defoliation differ in bonsai?
Bonsai pruning means cutting branches, while pinching, candle cutting and defoliation tidy up buds and leaves. Each has a different purpose and suits different species.
| Job | What you do | Main species | Aim |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pruning | Cut unwanted or overgrown branches | All species | Shape the tree and let in light and air |
| Pinching | Pinch off new shoots as they start to grow, with fingers or scissors | White pine, shimpaku, deciduous and flowering trees | Build fine branching and keep growth in check |
| Candle cutting | Cut the new shoots that grew in spring at their base | Black pine (and red pine) | Bring out second buds and keep the needles short and even |
| Defoliation (leaf cutting) | Cut off the leaves in early summer | Deciduous trees (maple, zelkova and others) | Bring out small new leaves |
The Omiya Bonsai Art Museum explains pruning as removing unwanted or overgrown branches. A cut branch cannot be put back, so it says to picture the finished tree before you cut.
Is candle cutting done on white pine too?
Candle cutting is a black pine technique, and it is not done on white pine. Komeri's guide also says white pine does not get candle cutting like black pine.
In material from the Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, candle cutting on black pine means cutting the new shoots at their base. This brings out weaker second buds and grows shorter needles.
Candle cutting asks a lot of the tree. Skip candle cutting on trees repotted that year and on weak trees. A bonsai writer's material also says to do it only on vigorous trees.
Which trees are defoliated?
Defoliation is done on deciduous trees that drop their leaves, such as maples and zelkovas. If you cut the leaves in early summer, small new leaves come out before winter.
Vigorous trees sometimes have all their leaves cut. On small or weak trees, keep it partial, for example by cutting each leaf in half.
It is safest to think of defoliation as a job only for vigorous deciduous trees. It is not done on conifers or flowering trees.
Candle cutting and pinching have similar names, but they are different jobs. Do not copy the black pine routine on a white pine.
How should you think about when to prune conifer bonsai?
The basic rule for pruning conifer bonsai is to cut thick branches before the buds move, then tidy lightly in autumn. Avoid the coldest part of midwinter.
| Species | Pruning | Bud work | Wiring |
|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | Feb–Mar, Oct–Dec | Jun–Jul | Mar–Apr, Oct–Dec |
| Japanese white pine | Sep | Apr–May | Feb–Mar, Sep–Nov |
| Shimpaku juniper | Feb–Mar, Sep–Dec | May–Oct | Feb–Mar, Sep–Dec |
| Needle juniper | May–Sep | May–Sep | May–Sep |
Source (4)
Black pine has its thick branches pruned before bud break. A bonsai writer's material says that hard cuts in the coldest season tend to cause dieback.
White pine pruning is only one month in autumn, as the table shows. Some sources also list spring pruning. This site uses a strict value that takes only the months where the sources overlap.
Shimpaku is marked over a long period, from autumn until before bud break. Shoots that grow in the growing season are tidied by pinching, not pruning.
Needle juniper is weak to cold. Unlike the other conifers, needle juniper bonsai is pruned in the warm months.
How should you think about when to prune deciduous bonsai?
The basic times for pruning deciduous bonsai are around leaf fall after the autumn color, and before bud break. Do not cut maple branches in winter.
| Species | Pruning | Bud work | Wiring |
|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese maple | Feb–Mar, Jun, Oct–Nov | Mar–Apr | Jun, Oct–Nov |
| Trident maple | Feb–Mar, May–Sep, Nov–Dec | Apr–Sep | Feb–Mar, Nov–Dec |
| Japanese zelkova | Feb–Mar, Jun–Sep, Nov–Dec | Apr–Sep | Feb–Mar, Jun–Jul, Nov–Dec |
Source: Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection / Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting) / Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
A bonsai writer's material says that maples cut in winter keep bleeding sap. Because of the risk of dieback, it says the safest time to cut is from after the autumn color through leaf fall.
Maples dislike wounds. Avoid cutting thick branches where you can, and if you must, do it before bud break, when wounds heal quickly. That is what the early spring marks in the table are for.
If you wait for the leaves to fall on their own, you may miss the time to prune. The same material removes the leaves after the autumn color and then cuts back the twigs.
Trident maple and zelkova have many pruning months, as the table shows. Summer pruning of deciduous trees is light work: tidying shoots that have grown, together with defoliation.
If you are unsure about a thick maple branch, leave it uncut. Cuts on maples heal more slowly than on other trees.
How should you think about when to prune flowering and fruiting bonsai?
The basic time to prune flowering and fruiting bonsai is right after the flowers finish. Cutting after the flower buds form in summer removes next year's flowers.
| Species | Pruning | Bud work |
|---|---|---|
| Japanese apricot (ume) | Feb–Mar | May |
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | Mar–Apr, Nov–Dec | Apr–Jul |
| Satsuki azalea | Apr–Jun, Oct | Jun–Jul |
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | Feb–Mar, May–Sep, Nov–Dec | Apr–Sep |
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) | Mar, Sep–Oct | May–Jun |
Source (5)
Satsuki flower buds form in summer (mid-July to mid-August). For satsuki grown for their flowers, finish pruning and pinching as soon as flowering ends.
Cherry flower buds also form in summer (mid-July to August). A bonsai writer's material says not to cut cherries grown for flowers from the end of the rainy season onward.
Ume is cut after flowering. Ume is a tree that likes fertilizer. Pruning and feeding after flowering grow next year's flower buds. Feeding is covered in when to fertilize bonsai.
Can you prune satsuki in spring?
Hard pruning of satsuki before flowering is done to rebuild the tree's shape. It means giving up that year's flowers.
The spring marks for satsuki in the table are for this rebuilding. If you want to enjoy the flowers, prune satsuki only after flowering.
With satsuki, the motto is "cut right away" once the flowers finish. Put it off until summer and you will cut off next year's buds too.
When should you not prune bonsai?
The times to avoid pruning bonsai for each species are shown in the table below. For every species, avoid strong direct sun in midsummer and freezing in midwinter.
| Species | Time to avoid | What happens | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black pine | The coldest part of midwinter | Hard cuts tend to cause dieback | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Needle juniper | Cold months | Weak to cold, so do the work in the warm months | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Japanese maple | Winter | The sap does not stop and branches die back | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Satsuki | After the flower buds form in summer | You cut off next year's flower buds | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Cherry | From the end of the rainy season on, and the coldest season | Flower buds are lost. Branches die back | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Banyan fig | Winter | Damage starts from the cut | Hyponex |
| All | Strong midsummer sun, midwinter freezing | The tree weakens | Kindai Shuppan |
The times to avoid in this table mostly match the unmarked months in the pruning table. If in doubt, prune within the marked months in the pruning table.
A bonsai publisher's guide says the best time to remove a thick branch at its base is around the spring equinox (higan). It says the best time to cut back twigs is right after leaf fall for deciduous trees and early spring for conifers.
How do you shift when to prune bonsai for your area or the year?
The months are a guide for lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area). Shift them later in colder areas and earlier in warmer areas, then pick the day by watching the buds.
Sources vary in their months. This site took the months where sources written for bonsai overlap. The details are in how this site sets its timings.
| Sign to watch | What it tells you about pruning |
|---|---|
| The buds have started to swell | Finish pruning before bud break soon |
| New shoots have grown and the leaves have opened | Hold off on thick branches and move on to bud work |
| The flowers have finished | Time to prune flowering trees |
| The leaves have colored | Time for autumn pruning of deciduous trees |
| Frost has started | Finish autumn pruning and prepare for winter |
Even within Kanto, the buds move earlier or later depending on how cold the year is. When to prune bonsai depends more on the buds in front of you than on the calendar month.
When should you wire bonsai?
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | ||||||||||||
| Japanese white pine | ||||||||||||
| Shimpaku juniper | ||||||||||||
| Needle juniper | ||||||||||||
| Japanese maple | ||||||||||||
| Trident maple | ||||||||||||
| Japanese zelkova | ||||||||||||
| Japanese apricot (ume) | ||||||||||||
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | ||||||||||||
| Satsuki azalea | ||||||||||||
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | ||||||||||||
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) |
Source (12)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.55 (candle cutting Jun–Jul), Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai, Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.50
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Shimpaku juniper
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (ume), All About (Kaori Yamada, Seikoen), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
The time to wire bonsai also depends on the species. For most, it is when the leaves have fallen and the branches are easy to see, and before the buds move.
Komeri's guide says to avoid wiring pines while the buds and needles are extending. During the work, the needles easily fall off or break.
A bonsai writer's material says winter wiring can cause dieback on satsuki. Black pine, too, may die back if it is wired in the growing season.
Like pruning, wire in the months marked in the table. After pruning has thinned the branches, they are easier to see and the work is easier.
What if the wire bites into the branch?
Remove it as soon as it starts to bite in. Grip the end of the wire with pliers and unwind it one turn at a time, in the opposite direction to how it was wound.
As the photo shows, if you are late taking it off, deep wire scars remain. Branches thicken fast in the growing season, and on maples the wire can bite in within about a month.
| Wire condition | What to do |
|---|---|
| There is a gap between the branch and the wire | Leave it. Mark it so it does not hide behind the leaves, and check on it |
| Marks are starting to show on the bark | Remove it. Rewire if the bend is not enough |
| It has bitten in deeply | Do not pull. Remove it one turn at a time without breaking the branch |
| It was put on after leaf fall | It can stay on longer, but the branches are stiff and break easily |
Wiring is not finished when the wire is on. The job ends only when you take it off. Using a tool rather than your fingers is safer, so you do not tear the branch off while removing it.
What should you do when bonsai pruning goes wrong?
For most pruning mistakes, the fix is to let the tree rest rather than trying to make up for it at once. Sort out its spot and watering, and wait for the next suitable time.
| Mistake | What happens | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cut too many thick branches | The tree weakens | Protect it under the eaves or in a cold frame in winter. Skip the next pruning |
| Pruned a maple in winter | Sap bleeds and branches die back | Put wound paste on the cut. Tidy the dead parts after the spring buds appear |
| Cut after the flower buds formed | Fewer flowers next year | Give up that year's flowers, and next year cut right after flowering |
| Candle-cut a weak black pine | The second buds are weak or do not appear | Skip candle cutting the next year and let it regain vigor |
| The wire bit in | Marks remain on the branch | Remove it at once |
| The tip of a cut branch is dying back | The dieback spreads toward the base | Cut back to where it is green under the bark |
A bonsai writer's material says to protect black pines that have had thick branches cut under the eaves or in a cold frame in winter. Just after cutting, a tree is more vulnerable to cold and dry wind.
Put a protective paste or wound sealant (a product that seals the wound) on the cuts. This stops the wound from drying out and keeps germs from getting in. Follow the product instructions.
When a branch tip dies, scrape the bark lightly and look at the color. Green means alive, so cut back to where green shows. If you are unsure, wait for the new spring buds.
Do not try to make up for over-pruning by adding fertilizer. First sort out the tree's spot and watering, and let it rest.
What should you check before pruning bonsai?
Before pruning bonsai, check the tree's vigor, the other work done that year, the flower buds, the weather and the month in the table. If any of them does not fit, move the day.
| What to check | OK to cut | Hold off |
|---|---|---|
| Tree vigor | The new shoots grew strongly | Poor leaf color, few buds |
| Work that year | No other major work piled up | Heavy pruning in the same year as repotting |
| Flower buds | Before they form, or right after flowering | After they have formed |
| Weather | A mild day | Strong midsummer sun, midwinter freezing |
| Month in the table | Marked | Not marked |
Material on shimpaku warns about juvenile needle foliage (pointed young foliage). It tends to appear when heavy pruning or wiring is done in the same year as repotting.
It is safest not to pile major work into the same year. Repotting is covered in when to repot bonsai.
What terms come up when talking about bonsai pruning?
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Pruning | Cutting unwanted or overgrown branches |
| Hard pruning | Cutting back heavily, down to thick branches, to rebuild the tree's shape |
| Branch removal | Cutting an unwanted branch off at its base |
| Cutting back | Shortening a grown branch just above a bud partway along it |
| Pinching | Pinching off new shoots as they start, to keep growth in check |
| Candle cutting | Cutting the new shoots of black pine at the base to bring out second buds |
| Second buds | The weaker new buds that appear after candle cutting |
| Defoliation (leaf cutting) | Cutting the leaves of deciduous trees in early summer to bring out small leaves |
| Flower buds | Buds that become flowers the next year. On flowering trees they form in summer |
| Wiring | Winding wire around branches to set their direction |
| Wound sealant | A product put on cuts to seal the wound |
| Conifers and deciduous trees | Evergreens such as pines and shimpaku, and trees that drop their leaves such as maple and zelkova |
What else should you know alongside bonsai pruning?
Bonsai pruning is linked in timing with repotting, feeding and winter care. You can check the flow of the year in the year calendar.
What are common questions about when to prune bonsai?
Can you prune bonsai in winter?
It depends on the species. Species marked for early winter or before bud break, such as black pine and shimpaku, can be cut.
In the coldest part of midwinter, avoid hard pruning on every species. Maples keep bleeding sap if cut in winter, so prune them around leaf fall.
Can you prune bonsai in summer?
Defoliating deciduous trees and lightly tidying shoots that have grown can be done in summer too. Avoid pruning thick branches under strong midsummer sun.
Flowering trees cut after their flower buds form in summer bloom less the next year. In summer, do not cut flowering trees; protect them with watering and shade.
Can you prune a bonsai you just bought right away?
First check in the table whether it is a pruning month for that species. If the month is not marked, wait until the next suitable time.
While you wait, decide the front of the tree and the branches to keep, so you will not hesitate on the day. A bonsai artist's guide also says to decide the front first, then start cutting from the top of the tree.
When do you pinch white pine buds?
The months for pinching white pine (candle pinching) are shown in the bud work table above. White pine does not get candle cutting like black pine.
White pine buds are pinched to keep growth in check. Do not cut the new shoots of white pine at the base at the same time as black pine.
Can you prune and wire on the same day?
If the tree is vigorous, you can do both at the same time. Pruning thins the branches, which makes the branches to wire easier to see.
But avoid piling them onto a repotting year. On shimpaku, combining repotting with heavy work tends to bring out juvenile needle foliage.
Sources
- Japan Tourism Agency multilingual commentary database: Bonsai techniques (Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, Saitama City. Pruning, wiring, defoliation)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, Saitama City: newsletter Jinshari Vol.55, Black pine: a technique unique to bonsai, told by small needles (in Japanese. Candle cutting, bud removal, needle thinning)
- Kindai Shuppan KINBON: Bonsai class from the basics, Pruning (in Japanese. Avoid midsummer and midwinter, best times for branch removal and cutting back)
- Komeri HowTo: Bonsai, care (in Japanese. Cutting new pine shoots, no candle cutting on white pine, avoid wiring while buds and needles extend)
- All About: How to prune bonsai (in Japanese. Kaori Yamada. Decide the front and cut from the crown)
- All About: Training black pine bonsai, removing wire and repotting (in Japanese. Kaori Yamada. How to remove wire that has started to bite in)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese black pine (クロマツの育て方, in Japanese. Conditions for candle cutting, pruning in the coldest season, winter protection for trees with thick branches cut)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese white pine (ゴヨウマツの育て方, in Japanese)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow shimpaku juniper (シンパクの育て方, in Japanese. Warning about juvenile needle foliage)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese maple (モミジの育て方, in Japanese. Winter pruning and sap, thick branches, defoliation, wire biting in)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow satsuki azalea (サツキの育て方, in Japanese. Pruning after flowering, when flower buds form, winter wiring)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow flowering cherry (サクラの育て方, in Japanese. When flower buds form, after the rainy season and the coldest season, protecting cuts)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru (in Japanese. Winter pruning damages the tree from the cut)
- UF/IFAS Extension Miami-Dade: Good Strategies for Cold Damage in the Landscape (green under the bark, cut back to living tissue)