When to do itBC-02
When to Repot Bonsai: Months for 13 Species, How Often, Rootbound Signs and Aftercare
The basic time to repot bonsai is spring, just before the buds start to move. Some species, such as needle juniper, chojubai and satsuki azalea, are repotted at other times.
In this article (16 sections)
- In short: when should you repot bonsai?
- How does the time to repot bonsai differ by group?
- Why do you repot bonsai in spring?
- Why are needle juniper, chojubai and satsuki azalea not repotted in spring?
- Why do sources give different months for repotting bonsai?
- How often should you repot bonsai?
- What are the signs that a bonsai is rootbound and needs repotting?
- What are the steps for repotting bonsai?
- What should you not do in the year you repot a bonsai?
- Where should you place a bonsai and how should you water it after repotting?
- What should you do if repotting a bonsai goes wrong?
- How do you shift the time to repot bonsai for your region?
- What terms come up when repotting bonsai?
- What else goes with repotting bonsai?
What are common questions about repotting bonsai?6
- Sources
In short: when should you repot bonsai?
The basic time to repot bonsai is spring, just before the buds start to move. Some species differ: needle juniper waits until it warms up, chojubai is done in autumn, and satsuki azalea after flowering.
The Omiya Bonsai Art Museum gives the time when trees bud out as the best time to repot. If the tree is healthy, it grows new roots even after its roots are cut back hard.
The trouble is that trees bud out at different times depending on the species. This site turned the care data for 13 species into a table of repotting months.
What this article covers:
- Repotting months for 13 species, and why some species are not repotted in spring
- How often to repot
- Signs of a rootbound tree, and the key steps of repotting
- What not to do in the year you repot
- Where to place the tree and how to water it after repotting, and what to do if it goes wrong
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | ||||||||||||
| Japanese white pine | ||||||||||||
| Shimpaku juniper | ||||||||||||
| Needle juniper | ||||||||||||
| Japanese maple | ||||||||||||
| Trident maple | ||||||||||||
| Japanese zelkova | ||||||||||||
| Japanese apricot (ume) | ||||||||||||
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | ||||||||||||
| Satsuki azalea | ||||||||||||
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | ||||||||||||
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) | ||||||||||||
| Banyan fig (gajumaru) |
Source (13)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.55 (candle cutting Jun–Jul), Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai, Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.50
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Shimpaku juniper
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (ume), All About (Kaori Yamada, Seikoen), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru
The months in the table are a guide for lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area). In colder areas shift them later, and in warmer areas shift them earlier.
Here is the table above, grouped by type of tree.
| Group | Species | How to think about repotting |
|---|---|---|
| Conifers (except needle juniper) | Japanese black pine, Japanese white pine, shimpaku juniper | Spring, when the buds start to move |
| Needle juniper (a conifer) | Needle juniper | Spring, but only after outdoor temperatures rise |
| Deciduous | Japanese maple, trident maple, Japanese zelkova | Spring, early, before the new buds extend |
| Flowering | Ume, flowering cherry, satsuki azalea, chojubai | Differs by species (after flowering or autumn for some) |
| Fruiting | Crabapple | Spring or autumn. Autumn for trees grown for their fruit |
| Indoor | Banyan fig | Once it warms up |
The key point: the time to repot bonsai is decided by two things: "just before the buds move" and "that tree's weak point".
How does the time to repot bonsai differ by group?
Conifers and deciduous trees are repotted in spring, while flowering and fruiting trees may also be repotted in autumn or after flowering. Deciduous trees start moving early, so they come early even within spring.
| Species | Type | Repotting |
|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | Conifer | Mar–Apr |
| Japanese white pine | Conifer | Mar–Apr |
| Shimpaku juniper | Conifer | Mar–Apr |
| Needle juniper | Conifer | May |
| Japanese maple | Deciduous | Mar |
| Trident maple | Deciduous | Feb–Mar |
| Japanese zelkova | Deciduous | Mar |
| Japanese apricot (ume) | Flowering | Mar |
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | Flowering | Mar, Sep–Oct |
| Satsuki azalea | Flowering | Jun, Sep–Oct |
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | Flowering | Feb, Sep–Oct |
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) | Fruiting | Mar, Sep–Oct |
| Banyan fig (gajumaru) | Indoor | May–Jun |
Source (13)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.55 (candle cutting Jun–Jul), Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Komeri, e-Bonsai, Omiya Bonsai Art Museum newsletter Vol.50
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Shimpaku juniper
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (Japanese maple), e-Bonsai (repotting), Saitama City reports on the museum collection
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (trident maple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (ume), All About (Kaori Yamada, Seikoen), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru
Each group has a different reason behind its timing.
| Group | What sets the timing | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Conifers | Use the force of budding to push out new roots | Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Deciduous | Roots grow fast, and the tree weakens if repotted after the new shoots extend | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (zelkova, maple) |
| Flowering | Avoid the flowering period and the season when root disease breaks out easily | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (satsuki, chojubai) |
| Fruiting | Repotting in spring can make the tree drop its fruit | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple) |
Trident maple roots grow fast, and the tree easily becomes rootbound. Japanese zelkova weakens if it is repotted after the new shoots have extended.
For deciduous trees, remember "finish before the buds open," and you will rarely miss the timing.
Why do you repot bonsai in spring?
Bonsai are repotted in spring because, before the buds open, cut roots regrow quickly. Cutting the roots is also a technique for keeping the tree from growing large.
The Omiya Bonsai Art Museum names two purposes of repotting.
| Purpose of repotting | The museum's explanation |
|---|---|
| Fix a rootbound tree | When the roots fill the pot, the tree can no longer take up water and nutrients |
| Keep the tree small | When the roots are cut back, the tree spends nutrients on growing roots again |
A bonsai grows in a small container, so its roots have nowhere to go. This is where it differs from a tree in the ground or a garden tree in a large pot.
The same museum repots even a large Japanese black pine over 1 meter tall when it buds out. It explains that even when most of the roots are cut short, a healthy tree grows roots again.
On repotting day, look at the tips of the buds. When they start to swell, it is time to repot that tree.
The basic rule is to repot bonsai just before the buds move, and to do it on a healthy tree.
Why are needle juniper, chojubai and satsuki azalea not repotted in spring?
Needle juniper is weak to cold, chojubai easily gets a root disease in spring, and satsuki azalea is repotted after flowering. Each species has its own reason.
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Needle juniper | ||||||||||||
| Chojubai (dwarf flowering quince) | ||||||||||||
| Satsuki azalea | ||||||||||||
| Flowering cherry (e.g. Asahiyama) | ||||||||||||
| Crabapple (hime-ringo) | ||||||||||||
| Banyan fig (gajumaru) |
Source (6)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (needle juniper), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (chojubai), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: Satsuki azalea
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (cherry), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days (crabapple), e-Bonsai (repotting)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru
| Species | When to repot | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Needle juniper | After outdoor temperatures rise | Weak to cold. Autumn is possible, but getting through winter is a worry |
| Chojubai | Autumn first. If in spring, early, before bud break | The bacteria that cause crown gall are active in warm weather |
| Satsuki azalea | After flowering, or in autumn | It can be done together with pruning after flowering |
| Flowering cherry | Spring and autumn | Bonsai sources give both spring and autumn |
| Crabapple | Spring and autumn. Autumn for trees grown for their fruit | Repotting in spring can make the tree drop its fruit |
| Banyan fig | Once it warms up | An indoor tree that is weak to cold |
Crown gall is a disease in which bacteria enter through wounds on the roots and form galls at the base of the tree. Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days says there is currently no medicine that cures it.
The name chojubai contains the word for ume (Japanese apricot), but the tree is a relative of flowering quince. Take care not to repot it in spring as if it were an ume.
Some sources recommend autumn for satsuki azalea, saying that in the hot summers of recent years the roots may not grow out fully. Look after a satsuki repotted in autumn carefully through the winter.
If you repot chojubai in spring, disinfect your tools and the roots. If you can move the job to autumn, that is safer.
Do not repot every bonsai in spring. Learn the exception species first, and you will not be left wondering.
Why do sources give different months for repotting bonsai?
Repotting months vary with the region a source assumes, the stage of the tree, and whether it is written for garden trees or for bonsai. This site uses the months where bonsai sources overlap.
Here are examples of where the months differ.
| Difference | What the sources say |
|---|---|
| Autumn repotting of Japanese black pine | One bonsai guide allows late summer to early autumn for a finished tree. A garden store guide also allows autumn for pine bonsai |
| Calendars for garden and potted trees | NHK's plant encyclopedia is written for garden and potted trees. Its repotting months for maple do not overlap with the bonsai sources |
| Region | Most bonsai guides use Kanto as the baseline |
For Japanese black pine, the table shows only spring months. It can also be repotted in autumn, but the sources overlap more in spring.
How the months are chosen is explained in how this site sets its timings.
The months in the table are "the months the sources agree on." It does not mean that every month outside the table is wrong.
How often should you repot bonsai?
Repot young trees at shorter intervals and finished trees at longer intervals. The interval also changes with the species.
Here are the intervals given in the sources.
| Species | Young or small trees | Finished or large trees | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Japanese black pine | Once every 3 to 4 years | Once every 4 to 5 years | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Pine bonsai | Shorter for young trees | Once every 3 to 5 years | Komeri |
| Trident maple | Every year | Once every 2 years | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Ume | Once every 1 to 2 years | Old trees once every 2 to 3 years | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Satsuki azalea | Small trees every year | Large trees once every 2 to 3 years | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Chojubai | Young trees once every 2 years | Mature trees once every 2 to 3 years | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Crabapple | Young trees every year | Mature trees once every 1 to 2 years | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Bonsai in general | Not stated | At least once every 3 years | All About (Seikoen) |
Pine roots are slow to recover, sometimes taking more than a year. Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days recommends leaving a repotted pine alone for a while.
Deciduous, flowering and fruiting trees grow roots quickly, so their intervals are shorter. Decide the interval by both the guide in years and the rootbound signs in the next section.
What are the signs that a bonsai is rootbound and needs repotting?
The signs are water that is slow to soak into the soil, hard soil, and weakening branch tips. The roots have filled the pot, and water and air struggle to get in.
All About (Seikoen) describes how a tree becomes rootbound like this.
- The roots fill the pot and the soil hardens
- Water and air struggle to get into the soil
- Healthy roots decrease and dead roots increase
- Water and nutrients do not reach the branches, and the branches die
Here are the signs you can see from outside, as a table.
| What you see | What is happening in the pot | How to check |
|---|---|---|
| Water pools on the surface when you water | Roots and packed soil keep the water out | When watering, watch how fast the water soaks in |
| Drainage was poor the previous year | The soil has broken down and clogged | The black pine guide treats this as the cue to repot |
| Branch tips die back, buds are weak | Fewer healthy roots are taking up water | At repotting time, take the tree out of the pot and look at the roots |
If you notice a rootbound tree out of season, do not cut the roots; just water more carefully. Wait until the time in the table to cut roots.
The year when both the guide in years and the signs line up is the year to repot.
What are the steps for repotting bonsai?
Repotting a bonsai goes in this order: take it out of the pot, remove the old soil, cut the roots, plant it, and water it. How much root to cut depends on the species and the stage of the tree.
Here are the steps from the Omiya Bonsai Art Museum and All About (Seikoen), put together.
- Run a blade between the rim of the pot and the soil, and lift the tree out while loosening the roots
- Remove the old, packed soil while loosening the roots
- Cut back the long roots (on the bottom as well as the sides)
- Fix the mesh over the drainage hole and lay coarse soil on the bottom
- Set the tree in place and work soil into the gaps with a chopstick
- Tie the tree to the pot with wire
- Water thoroughly until clear water runs out of the bottom of the pot
All About says that if the soil is not worked in well enough, the tree can weaken within about 2 weeks. It is important to get soil in between the fine roots.
How much root to cut varies by species.
| Species and stage | Guide to root work | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Young Japanese black pine | Loosen up to about half of the root ball | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Finished Japanese black pine | Up to about a third. Cutting too much loses the look of age | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Trident maple | Half to two thirds. Roots grow back well even after deep cuts | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Chojubai | Cutting half to two thirds is fine | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Old ume | Keep about two thirds of the soil. Deep cuts make flower buds less likely to form | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Needle juniper | Just tidy the outside and replace the old soil | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
For most species the soil is mainly akadama (a granular Japanese clay). For satsuki azalea, the soil is mainly kanuma, which is acidic.
Remember "go easy on pines and needle juniper, cut more on deciduous trees," and you will grasp the difference between species.
What should you not do in the year you repot a bonsai?
In the year you repot, hold off on candle cutting for black pine and on stacking heavy pruning or wiring on top. Also wait to fertilize right after repotting until the roots recover.
| What not to do | Species | Reason and source |
|---|---|---|
| Candle cutting | Japanese black pine | Skip it in a repotting year or on a weak tree (Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days) |
| Stacking heavy pruning or wiring on top | Shimpaku juniper | Doing them in the same year tends to bring out juvenile needle foliage (Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days) |
| Fertilizer right after repotting | All species | The roots are damaged. Wait 2 to 3 weeks and start with a small amount (Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days, Hyponex) |
| Root cutting after the buds have moved | Crabapple, Japanese zelkova | New shoots wilt, and the tree weakens (Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days) |
Juvenile needle foliage is the sharp, needle-like young form of leaf that can appear on shimpaku juniper. It spoils the look, so it is a change you want to avoid on shimpaku.
Candle cutting is a technique of cutting off the new shoots of a black pine so that the second flush of buds evens out the needles. It uses the tree's strength, so do it only on vigorous trees.
Do not do repotting and candle cutting in the same year. For a black pine, choose one of them for each year.
How to start fertilizing is covered in detail in when to fertilize bonsai. Think of a repotting year not as a year to thicken the tree but as a year to bring the roots back.
Where should you place a bonsai and how should you water it after repotting?
After repotting, keep the bonsai in the shade for a few days and do not let it dry out. Protect weak or small trees in a spot such as under the eaves.
Here are the places and watering given in the sources for after repotting.
| Species or situation | Place | Water | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Needle juniper | Rest it in the shade for a few days | It dries out easily, so do not let it run dry | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Weak or small Japanese black pine | Under the eaves or in a cold frame | When the inside of the pot is dry. Normally morning and evening | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Chojubai with damaged roots | Under the bench | After the soil dries. Mist the leaves to keep the humidity up | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Crabapple | Keep it out of frost in winter | Not stated | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| Satsuki azalea repotted in autumn | In winter, wait longer before putting it outside | Not stated | Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days |
| All species (right after repotting) | Not stated | Until clear water runs out of the bottom of the pot | All About (Seikoen) |
A cold frame (muro) is an enclosure that protects bonsai from winter cold and dry wind.
When watering, watch out both for letting it get too dry and for giving too much. Right after repotting there are few roots, and the tree's ability to take up water is low.
Everyday watering is covered in watering bonsai, and where to keep trees in winter in bonsai winter care. After repotting, the basic rule is to place the tree where its roots are protected from sun and drying out.
What should you do if repotting a bonsai goes wrong?
If repotting goes wrong, move the tree into the shade, water only after the soil dries, and remove the fertilizer. Do not repot it again right away; wait for the roots to recover.
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves or new shoots wilt | The roots were cut too hard, or the soil was not worked in enough | Move it under the bench or into the shade, and mist the leaves to keep the humidity up |
| The tree wobbles | The tree is not tied firmly to the pot | Tie it to the pot again with wire |
| The leaf color gets worse | The roots are damaged, and the fertilizer is irritating them | Remove the fertilizer for now |
| Needle juniper suddenly dies back | The roots were cut too hard | Next time, only tidy the outside |
Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days also describes resting a chojubai with damaged roots in a covered seedling bed. Keeping the humidity up helps it recover.
The same source says that most sudden die-back in needle juniper comes from forcing the root work. Pine roots are also slow to recover, sometimes taking more than a year.
The basic remedy is to wait, without adding any work that puts more strain on the roots.
How do you shift the time to repot bonsai for your region?
Shift the time later in cold regions and earlier in warm regions. The months in the table are a guide for lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area).
| Region | How to shift | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Lowland Kanto (the Tokyo area) | As in the table | The months in the table |
| Cold regions and high ground | Shift later | Whether the buds have started to swell |
| Warm regions | Shift earlier | Whether you can finish before the buds move |
Bud movement also shifts with each year's temperatures. Do not decide by the month alone; look at the buds on your own tree.
You can also check which jobs to do this month with the tool where you pick a month and a species.
The month table is the starting point, and the buds on the tree make the final call. This way of thinking works in any region.
What terms come up when repotting bonsai?
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Repotting | Taking the tree out of the pot, removing the old soil, trimming the roots and planting it again |
| Rootbound | A state where the roots fill the pot and water and air no longer pass through |
| Root ball | The mass of roots and soil when the tree comes out of the pot |
| Bonsai soil | The soil put in the pot. For bonsai it is mainly akadama |
| Crown gall | A disease in which bacteria enter through root wounds and form galls at the base of the tree |
| Candle cutting | A technique of cutting the new shoots of a black pine so the second buds even out the needle length |
| Juvenile needle foliage | The sharp, needle-like young form of leaf that can appear on shimpaku juniper |
| Cold frame | An enclosure that protects bonsai from winter cold and dry wind |
| Conifers and deciduous trees | Evergreen conifers such as pines and shimpaku, and deciduous trees such as maples and zelkova |
What else goes with repotting bonsai?
Repotting bonsai is tied to the timing of fertilizer, pruning and watering. Go on to the next article for whichever job you want to know more about.
- How to start fertilizer after repotting: when to fertilize bonsai
- Pruning you should not stack with repotting: when to prune bonsai
- Water after repotting: watering bonsai
- All the jobs for 13 species in one place: bonsai year calendar
What are common questions about repotting bonsai?
What is the best time to repot bonsai?
For most species, spring just before the buds start to move. Needle juniper, chojubai, satsuki azalea and banyan fig differ, as shown in the table.
Check the months for each species in the table above.
Should you repot a bonsai right after you buy it?
Ideally, do not repot it right away; repot it at the first suitable time after you buy it. All About (Seikoen) recommends this.
Check the roots at that point by taking the tree out of the pot.
Can you repot bonsai in autumn?
It depends on the species. Chojubai, flowering cherry, crabapple and satsuki azalea have autumn months too, as shown in the table.
Some sources also allow autumn repotting for a finished Japanese black pine. Protect trees repotted in autumn from the winter cold.
When can you fertilize a repotted bonsai?
Do not feed it right after repotting; wait about 2 to 3 weeks and start with a small amount. This is because the roots are damaged.
This is covered in detail in when to fertilize bonsai.
How much root do you cut when repotting bonsai?
It depends on the species and the stage of the tree. A finished Japanese black pine can be trimmed by about a third, and a trident maple by half or more.
Go easy on pines and needle juniper.
Do you have to repot bonsai every year?
Yearly repotting is needed for trees such as young deciduous trees and small trees. For a finished Japanese black pine, once every 4 to 5 years is the guide.
Decide the interval together with the rootbound signs.
Sources
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, Saitama City: Jinshari newsletter Vol.45, Repotting a giant black pine bonsai (in Japanese. The purposes of repotting, the best time is when trees bud out, roots grow again even after being cut back)
- Omiya Bonsai Art Museum, Saitama City: Jinshari newsletter Vol.55, Japanese black pine (in Japanese. The candle cutting technique)
- All About: Repotting bonsai, by Kaori Yamada of Seikoen (in Japanese. Once every 3 years, how a tree becomes rootbound, the steps, a tree can weaken in about 2 weeks if the soil is not worked in, repot a bought tree at the first suitable time)
- Komeri HowTo: Bonsai (in Japanese. Repotting interval for pine bonsai, autumn repotting)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese black pine (in Japanese. Repotting interval, loosening the roots, candle cutting in a repotting year, fertilizer after 2 to 3 weeks)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow shimpaku juniper (in Japanese. Stacking heavy pruning or wiring brings out juvenile needle foliage)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow needle juniper (in Japanese. Weak to cold, repot after it warms up, rest it in the shade, forced root work)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow maples (in Japanese. Becomes rootbound easily, repotting interval, root work)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow Japanese zelkova (in Japanese. Repotting after the new shoots extend weakens the tree)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow ume (in Japanese. Repotting interval, how much soil to keep on old trees)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow satsuki azalea (in Japanese. After flowering or in autumn, kanuma soil, interval, winter for trees repotted in autumn)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow chojubai (in Japanese. Autumn first, crown gall, disinfection, root work, resting a tree with damaged roots)
- Kimi's Mini Bonsai Days: How to grow crabapple (in Japanese. Spring and autumn, dropping fruit, root cutting after the buds move, frost)
- e-Bonsai (in Japanese. Cross-check of repotting times by species)
- Hyponex Plantia: Recommended fertilizers for houseplants and how to use them (in Japanese. Let plants rest about 2 weeks after repotting)
- Hyponex Plantia: How to grow gajumaru (in Japanese. Repotting time, weak to cold)
- NHK Publishing, Minna no Shumi no Engei plant encyclopedia: Maple (in Japanese. A calendar for garden and potted trees. Used only for cross-checking)